A collection of informative resources to answer most questions.
Current format for product made after 1/1/2019: Ayymmddbbb The first letter is A for made in America, the first two digits after the A is the last two digits of the year of manufacture, the fourth and fifth digits represent the month, the sixth and seventh digits represent the day of the month and the last three digits represent the batch number for that day. Example: A190615023 – This material was manufactured on June 15, 2019 Format for product made prior to 1/1/2019: Aymmddbbbb The first letter is A for made in America, the first digit after the A is the last digit of the year of manufacture, the third and fourth digits represent the month, the fifth and sixth digits represent the day of the month and the last four digits represent the batch number. Example: A604270023 – This material was manufactured on April 27, 2016 Please contact Technical Service with any additional questions.
Yes we do. Please download the most recent State VOC Laws map here.
Moisture levels above 10% can slow the drying of water based wood glues such as Titebond Original, II and III to the point where, wood above 16% moisture content, may not dry at all. Water based glues can take 24 hours to fully cure before machining. A phenomenon called "sunken glue joints" can occur if water based glued assemblies are machined before moisture equilibrium is completed near the glue lines.
If Titebond Wood Glues are accidentally spilled on clothing, it is important to immediately wet it with water and keep it wet until all adhesive is rubbed off of the clothing. Do not put the clothing item in the dryer until all adhesive is removed. Heat will melt the adhesive into the fabric and it will be permanent. Titebond II and Titebond III if allowed to dry will not release from fabric. A mixture of Acetone/Water/Vinegar will soften the adhesive but will not dissolve it. Scraping the softened adhesive should remove a majority of the adhesive.
Moisture barriers have been on the market for several years, but recently they have experienced a surge in popularity. To the inexperienced, a moisture barrier may seem to be an unnecessary addition to the cost of a hardwood floor. Concrete is hygroscopic. Like wood, concrete has the ability to absorb and release water if conditions are correct. Concrete attracts water because it is porous. Once the pores get wet, they draw in water from their surroundings through wicking action (capillary suction). Do you need a moisture barrier? Yes. The concrete slab could have an acceptable level of moisture at the time of your flooring installation. Unfortunately, installation conditions do not dictate what the slab moisture will be in a few days, months or years. There are many contributing factors to the slab absorbing moisture. Is the grading correct outside your home? Was the concrete poured at the correct water, sand, Portland cement, and rock proportions? Is there a plastic moisture barrier in place or has it been compromised? These are great questions that usually won’t be answered until there is a concrete slab moisture problem. By that time, it is usually too late to save the wood flooring. Purchasing a moisture barrier is the safest, most economical way for a consumer to assure the slab’s capillary action will not ruin the flooring installation. Usually, for less then 10 percent of the cost of a hardwood floor, a moisture barrier can be purchased - often adding an additional moisture warranty to the installation.
A property of adhesives that allows the material to be deformed continuously and permanently without rupture upon the application of a force that exceeds the yield value of the material.
Instant Bond - Thin Assembly Time: 5 seconds Cure Speed: 3 seconds; Instant Bond - Medium Assembly Time: 7 seconds Cure Speed: 5 seconds; Instant Bond - Thick Assembly Time: 10 seconds Cure Speed: 8 seconds; Instant Bond - Gel Assembly Time: 30 seconds Cure Speed: 20 seconds When Instant Bond Activator is used with the Instant Bond adhesive, all assembly and cure times can be cut in half.
Ensure the surface is clean and dry. If dust or dirt is on the intended bonded surface, use a small amount of acetone until clean. Acidic surfaces (wood with dark tannic acids, some leathers and metals) can inhibit curing of the Instant Bond adhesive. Use the Titebond Activator to start the curing process or, spray one side with Titebond Activator and spread Titebond Instant bond on the other surface for an instant bond
All Instant Bond caps are equipped with "anti-clogging" needles to prevent clogging and premature curing.
Ensure the surface is clean and dry of any material such as oil or dirt.
Yes, do not use on foam, polyethylene and/or polypropylene plastics.
Yes, not designed for continuous water submersion and installing rear view mirrors.
2 years in unopened bottles, stored at room temperature. Keep exposure to atmospheric moisture (humidity) to a minimum to extend product shelf life on open containers. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
No, Instant Bond adhesives are not only designed for wood. They will also bond plastics, metal, rubber, cove base, brass, china, leather, pottery, fiberglass and more. For a complete listing, please contact our technical service team at 1-800-347-4583.
Place a small amount of acetone on the effected area and rub until the adhesive has been removed. Please follow solvent vendor’s precautions. Nail polish remover can also be used to remove adhesive. Be cautious as these products are flammable and can irritate skin.
Instant Bond can withstand temperatures as low as -65°F.
Instant Bond is designed for interior usage.
Instant Bond can be used in temperatures from -65F to 200F. Not recommended for exterior use due to slight softening of the adhesive with water.
"Tooling time" is the amount of time you have to work, smooth, tool or otherwise manipulate the material once it’s applied before it forms a skin layer.
All sealants will release some odor during its cure or dry cycle. Most of this occurs during the first 24 hours after the product is applied. Titebond neutral cure sealants do not have the vinegar-type odor that is associated with acetoxy cure sealants such as Titebond 100% Silicone Sealant and other acetoxy cure silicone products on the market.
Some materials, such as concrete, soft woods, stone, specially treated metals, plastics, or other man-made materials, might have unpredictable surface characteristics. Therefore, we recommend that you test for adhesion by applying the caulk to a small area before proceeding with an entire job. It is also very important to prepare surfaces properly. This should be done on the same day you apply the product. The following are guidelines for preparing a variety of surfaces.
We recommend that consumers not use caulk in any electrical application. Contact a technical service representative at 1-800-347-GLUE for more information.
Dry time will depend on the size of the bead, atmospheric and substrate conditions. A skin will form on a sealant in 1 to 3 hours at 70°F and 50% relative humidity. Once a skin is formed it can be tested for durability and may be painted over at that time. Full drying or curing may take up to two weeks depending on atmospheric conditions and condition of the substrates to which the sealant is applied. As an example, water based sealants may take over one month to cure if the substrate’s moisture content is high. In this case, a reactive sealant may be a better choice.
The air temperature and humidity in the air can affect how long reactive sealant takes to cure or a water based sealant to dry. A reactive sealant will cure slower when it is cool and the air is dry (low humidity). A water based sealant will dry slower when it is cooler out or more humid. Make sure to vary your wait time based on the humidity level.
Titebond caulk features a "Shelf Life" date on the cartridge. This should tell you if the caulk is still fresh and able to be used. If you cannot read the date or want to test the caulk prior to starting a project, there is also a simple test that only takes 10 to 15 minutes. Run a small bead on a piece of cardboard. If after about 15 minutes, the product doesn't form a "skin," the product is probably too old and won't ever fully cure (dry completely). For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
You should caulk gaps, cracks, or joints in areas where you want to keep water and/or air out of your home. The list below includes common places caulk is needed.
No, it is not recommended by Titebond, nor most siding manufacturers. Butt Joints of Plank Siding are too small to accommodate a large enough bead for proper application and tooling, therefore, the seal fails. If it is necessary to seal butt joints, the expected amount of expansion and contraction must be calculated to determine the correct size and spacing for the butt joints based on the type of caulk being considered for application. As an example, a 30 foot run of fiber cement board may expand and contract a total of ½ inch from winter to summer. If a sealant with a 25% expansion/contraction rating is used, then the butt joints must allow a total of 1 inch in width to accommodate this movement as long as sealant is applied at mid point temperatures. This must be divided equally between all butt joints in that run. For further details please refer to the installation instructions on the caulking tube or call Technical Service at 1-800-347-GLUE.
Water based sealants should be tooled using a wet foam brush, sponge, paint brush or by simply using your figure. Solvent based sealants should be tooled with similar materials, but wetted with mineral spirits. Both Solvent and Water-based products will shrink and take-on a concave form. All reactive sealants (100% solids) should be tooled to be concave for maximum sealant performance.
It is highly recommended to remove old sealant from a joint if possible. Old sealant has usually been damaged by ultraviolet light, mold, mildew, algae and/or moisture or has pulled away from one or both surfaces. Once the sealant is removed, the surfaces must be inspected to insure they are stable and strong enough to hold the new sealant when the joint expands and contracts. Cut away damaged substrate or if damage is too great, replace one or both panels as needed. If applying new sealant over old sealant, be sure the area is clean and free of mold, mildew, algae and moisture damage. If the old sealant is silicone based, this sealant must be removed to allow the new sealant to bond to the substrates
If caulking has pulled away from the edge of the joint or if there is a mildew problem, etc. cut away product with a knife or razor, clean the area and then recaulk.
Titebond water-based caulks will cleanup easily with water and a damp rag when still wet. If has fully dried than cleanup will require mineral spirits or orange-based cleaners along with some elbow grease (scraping). Titebond WeatherMaster Sealant and other MS polymer based sealants can be cleaned with Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol) or acetone while uncured. After curing, these sealants must be scraped or cut off surfaces. They are designed to be permanent sealants and therefore are difficult to remove once cured. To ease clean up, tape off areas to prevent sealant from attaching to unintended surfaces.
Clean the crack, seam, or joint where caulk will be applied with bleach and water solution. Remove dirt, chalky paint and other residue completely before applying caulk. Avoid darkness, dampness and potential food sources for mildew to grow.
Caulk should be applied in a line (called a “bead”) no thinner than ¼”. While drying, thinner beads of water based sealant will shrink which may hamper their ability to be tooled or create a proper seal. The depth of sealant should be ½ the width of the joint, but sealant should be no less than 1/8” deep
Once the urethane has been squirted into the space underneath the flooring, the usual cure time is within thirty to forty-five minutes.
In order to use the Titebond Urethane Repair System correctly, a hole slightly larger than 1/16" needs to be drilled into the wood flooring. The needle of the gun is inserted into this hole and the two-part urethane adhesive is squirted underneath the floor. For instructions, see this article.
Titebond 771-Step requires the use of a 150 pound roller within 30 minutes of flooring intallation. For all other Titebond Flooring Products, Franklin International recommends walking the floor every two to three hours during the installation. Look for any adhesive on the surface of the flooring. Try to prevent any adhesive from curing on the surface of prefinished floor. Also, ensure the side gaps and end gaps of the flooring are snuggly fit together. As a result of these tasks, the floor is in effect being "rolled" and proper contact is achieved. Look for areas that begin to lift and place a weight on those areas until the adhesive has built enough strength to hold the flooring in place. After the adhesive has dried, remove the weights and any wedges to allow the floor to have room for normal expansion and contraction.
Titebond III Ultimate – light brown Titebond Original – yellow Titebond II Premium – translucent yellow Titebond Dark – brown Titebond Liquid Hide – transparent amber Titebond Melamine – colorless Titebond Quick & Thick - colorless Titebond Translucent – colorless Titebond Instant Bond – colorless
Construction adhesives such as Titebond Heavy Duty Construction and the PROvantage line may be removed with mineral spirits both before and after they have dried. The water-based Titebond GREENchoice Construction Adhesives may be cleaned with water when they are wet, but will require mineral spirits if they have dried.
Heating a bond made with any of our construction adhesives is generally the best approach to weakening it enough to allow separation or disassembly. While most adhesives weaken progressively as they increase in temperature, temperatures of 150°F or higher are often needed to have the desired effect. A heat gun is a good tool for this task.
The "crackling effect" is a process that can give an antique appearance to just about anything. With this effect virtually anything will appear distinguishably aged. Traditionally, most hobbyists have used Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Instructions to achieve this effect.
Our literature states the shelf life of a majority of our wood glues as two years. Most of our yellow and white glues, including Titebond Original and Titebond II, remain usable beyond two years. Should Titebond Original become thick and stringy, or Titebond II turn into an orange-colored gel, these changes signify that the glue is no longer usable. The minimum shelf life of Titebond III is stated as one two years. When stored appropriately at room temperature, Titebond III is expected to last beyond its stated shelf life. If thickened, shake vigorously by firmly tapping bottle on a hard surface until product is restored to original form. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
Because a surface layer of oil or tannic acid tends to build up on these species, they can present a problem. For either type of wood, planing, jointing, or sanding shortly before bonding will remove the contaminating layer and allow successful bonding. Otherwise, the surface being bonded will need to be wiped with acetone to remove the layer. Acetone dries quickly and allows bonding almost immediately after the surfaces have been wiped.
All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards.
For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours.
Most of our water-based wood glues can be thinned with water up to 5% by weight or by volume. Adding more than 5% water to our glues will decrease the bond strength. Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is thinned by gently heating the bottle in a pan of warm water.
Most of our glues are designed to bond bare wood. Painting or staining a wood blocks the pores, keeping the glue from penetrating into the wood. It may be possible that some of our glues may work for gluing together painted or stained surfaces. It is necessary to remember that the overall bond will only be as strong as the bond between the paint and the wood. We recommend that all substrates be clean of any type of paint, stain, or sealer.
For most of our water-based wood glues, it is often best to use a damp cloth and remove excess glue before it has dried. After the glues have dried, scraping or sanding works well. Steam from an iron may also be effective, but it will not take the glue out of the pores of the wood. Once dry, Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesives may be removed with acetone or sanding.
A number of products can be used for foamboard depending on the substrate base on which the foamboard will be installed. For installation on porous substrates such as wood, plywood, regular OSB, unpainted/uncoated cement board, use Titebond All Purpose Adhesive (solvent based, high VOC, not available in all states), Titebond GREENchoice Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (water-based), or Titebond GREENchoice Fast Grab FRP Adhesive. For Moisture resistant drywall or OSB, ceramic tile, fire resistant plywood/OSB, or painted/coated non-porous substrates use Titebond Fast Set Polyurethane Construction Adhesive or Titebond Advanced Polymer Panel Adhesive. Be sure to follow all installation instructions from the foamboard manufacturer and on the adhesive’s label and Technical Data Sheet. Call our Technical Service group at 800-347-4583 for any other questions.
A number of products can be used for tub surround installations depending on the substrate base on which the tub surround will be installed. For installation on porous substrates such as unpainted/coated cement board, use Titebond All Purpose Adhesive (solvent based, high VOC, not available in all states), Titebond GREENchoice Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive (water-based), or Titebond GREENchoice Fast Grab FRP Adhesive. For Moisture resistant drywall, ceramic tile or painted/coated non-porous substrates use Titebond Fast Set Polyurethane Construction Adhesive or Titebond Advanced Polymer Panel Adhesive. Be sure to follow all installation instructions from the tub surround manufacturer and on the adhesive’s label and Technical Data Sheet. Call our Technical Service group at 800-347-4583 for any other questions.
Titebond Heavy Duty and PROvantage Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive are the best choice for metal installations. Titebond GREENchoice Heavy Duty Construction could also be appropriate if strength requirements are modest. It is important that the surface to which the metal is being bonded is porous and unpainted so that these products can dry.
Titebond manufactures several construction adhesives for bonding wet, frozen or treated lumber. Appropriate adhesives have passed the APA's AFG-01 or ASTM D-3498 specifications.
Titebond Heavy Duty Construction and Titebond PROvantage Heavy Duty Construction are the preferred product for installing glass mirrors. It is important to use mechanical fasteners when working with heavy mirrors, and is required when installing mirrors in a public building.
Our water-based products may reach full strength in 24 - 72 hours under warm and dry conditions, but will require several days longer in damp or cool conditions. Finally, solvent-based and PROvantage products typically develop about one-third to one-half strength overnight regardless of conditions, but require a week or more to achieve full strength.
In general, excessive walking on the floor should not occur for several days. In particular, the floor should not be exposed to heavy traffic or furniture until the adhesive is near full strength. While polyurethane adhesives generally reach full strength within two days, other adhesives can take a week or more. If it is necessary to use a portion of the floor earlier, covering that portion with sheets of padded plywood, at least ½" thick, will spread the load involved and minimize any effect on the bond. When placing the plywood, take care not to scratch the surface of the new wood flooring.
Yes, clean concrete is probably the most common surface to which wood flooring is bonded, and it serves as a good base for our adhesives. We do not recommend our adhesives for use over concrete that is high in moisture content or concrete that has been sealed or painted. For high moisture content concrete, we offer moisture control products.
Franklin wood flooring products can be used over vinyl tiles, rolled or sheet goods as long as those tiles are well anchored and clean. We recommend the use of an ammonia based cleaning product to insure the removal of any wax that may have been applied to the tile.
Yes, any of our wood Flooring Products can be used over radiant heated floors. A concrete primer is recommended for lightweight concrete. We suggest that the system be turned off for a day or so before the installation. This process ensures that the adhesive will provide the necessary working time to install the floor. Once the floor is in place, the system can be turned back on, and the adhesive will not be affected by the operating temperature of the radiant heat system. The thermostat of the radiant heating system cannot exceed 85°F. during normal use.
Adhesive removal is easiest when the adhesive is still wet. Water based adhesives are removed with water, while urethane based adhesives are removed with mineral spirits. The best way to remove dried adhesive from the top of a wood floor depends on the adhesive that was used. While most dried adhesives can be removed using mineral spirits, polyurethane based adhesives which have been allowed to cure on top of the floor are difficult to remove. Test any products used on an uninstalled piece of flooring to ensure compatibility with flooring finish. Franklin is not responsible for any damage created by improper removal techniques. PROvantage products may be removed, when wet and dry, with mineral spirits.
The preferred method for removal of any existing adhesive is mechanical, where the bulk of the adhesive is scraped from the subfloor using a tool like an ice scraper. The residue is then abraded or sanded, and the dust particles collected. This method should never be used, however, if you suspect the adhesive (or even the old flooring material) may contain asbestos or mold. In the United States, asbestos was phased out of use in the 1980’s, but it is highly possible that any material that was installed over 15 years ago could still contain the cancerous substance. Federal regulations require that only licensed and certified hazardous material contractors can remove asbestos containing materials. These contractors are readily available today in most communities and can test samples of the material for asbestos at a nominal fee. Mold may also exist if any water damage is visibly apparent. This material can present severe health effects if not removed properly. Again, a certified contractor who is well experienced with this type of material should be consulted. After removal of the adhesive, some discoloration may remain. This is actually a sign that the new adhesive will be bonding to a solid surface, which will allow good anchorage for the new floor.
Franklin International recommends only urethane Flooring Products for gluing plywood to concrete. To glue plywood substrate over concrete: • Use 3/4" exterior-grade plywood that has been cut into 4' x 4' sections. • Score plywood backside 3/8" deep every 8"-10" in order to relieve tension in plywood. (There should be 4-6 cuts in all 4' x 4' sheets.) • Use a 1/4" x 1/4" square-notched trowel to apply adhesive to concrete. • Set 4' x 4' sheets into wet adhesive. • Add weight as necessary to ensure adhesive remains in contact with plywood as it cures. • Allow adhesive to cure overnight before proceeding with the flooring installation.
Franklin recommends the removal of black cutback or other adhesives before the use of our products, for two reasons. First, we often find that the adhesive already on the floor is not well anchored or is so weak that routine movement in the floor tears it apart. The second concern is that one of the adhesives involved may affect the other, changing its capabilities and, ultimately affecting the anchorage of the floor.
"Shelf life" is a conservative estimate of the minimum time period that we would expect a given product to remain usable, when stored as directed. This concept might also be called "useable service life" or "storage life," and it necessarily refers to both the physical handling properties and the ability of the product to perform properly. When used in reference to wood glues, reaching the stated shelf life does not mean that a product will "expire" or become unusable. Instead, we view the stated shelf life of most of our glues merely as a guideline to avoid potential aging concerns. In reality, as long as products like Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III remain fluid, without a drastic change in appearance, they will continue to perform as intended. For a complete list of Titebond wood glues, adhesives and sealants shelf lives click here.
While all Titebond products provide superior performance, Titebond III is especially useful for outdoor applications in cooler temperatures or when concern for substantial moisture calls for the use of a Type I glue. For interior applications, the longer working time of Titebond III provides woodworkers the necessary latitude to ensure that substrates are precisely aligned before being bonded. Overall, Titebond III combines superior strength, Type I water-resistance, long open time and low chalk temperature into one easy-to-use formulation.
While polyurethane glues bond well to a variety of materials, Titebond III is superior in many ways. In addition to excellent water-resistance, it provides a stronger bond on wood-to-wood applications, doesn't foam and requires less clamp time. Titebond III has no health issues, doesn't require the use of gloves and cleans up with water. It is significantly less expensive than polyurethane glues and offers similar coverage rates.
Both of these tests are conducted using 6” by 6” birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet. Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification.Type II testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 2" by 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bonds must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.
The amount of lineal feet possible from a tube of construction adhesive is determined by the size of the bead. Typical recommended bead is a minimum ¼" diameter. The following tables provide coverages for differing bead sizes.
Yes, most of our Construction Adhesives have been formulated for exterior use but also require mechanical fasteners for most exterior jobs. None of our construction adhesives are recommended for applications below the water line or for continuous submersion in water.
Wood flooring curls or cups because the bottom of the flooring has become higher in moisture than the top. This situation can reflect moisture absorbed from some flooring products or may indicate high moisture levels in the subfloor itself. While changes due to the moisture from an adhesive are temporary because the amount of moisture involved is limited and soon evens out, moisture from the subfloor is often a more severe and recurring problem.
The key to the disassembly of glue joints is weakening the bond. For Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III, raising the glue joint temperature with a heat gun or a blow dryer will reduce the glue's strength. Steam from an iron may also work. Placing a few drops of water on the edge of a joint made with Titebond Liquid Hide Glue will, after absorbed, cause the joint to weaken. For Titebond Instant Bond glues, placing a few drops of acetone on the joint may cause the joint to loosen after absorption.