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Application Tips are designed to provide a quick reference to the helpful suggestions regarding our products and their applications. If you need further assistance, please refer to Technical Service or FAQ's. For a definition of unfamiliar terms, please refer to Glossary.
 
Decrease clamping time using a vacuum press.
To decrease the clamp time in a vacuum press, put a thick piece of wood into the vacuum bag to help absorb the moisture from the glue. This technique is best utilized when laminating many thin veneers together because the water in the glue saturates the veneers.
Get better results gluing woods that are oily or high in tannic acid.
When working with woods that are high in tannic acid or are considered oily, wiping the joints with acetone before gluing them up ensures a good bond. Acetone clears the contaminants from the wood's pores on the bonding surface and dries quickly without leaving any residue. A good bonding surface can also be achieved by sanding or planing the wood just before gluing the joints.
Prevent "stepped" joints in your projects.
Stepped joints typically result when pieces of wood of different moisture contents are edge glued together in making a tabletop or cabinet door. It is important to be sure that all the wood for a given project is at the same moisture content before beginning a project. Allowing the wood to acclimate or sit exposed in your shop for a week or two is one way to be sure each piece of wood has a similar moisture content.
When gluing, use masking tape to cover parts of your piece that will be stained later.
Glue joint "squeeze out" may make the area around the joint difficult to stain. Use masking tape to cover the areas that you do not want glue to soak into. The sections that were masked will be free of stain resisting glue when the masking tape is removed.
Determine the optimum clamp time of Titebond Liquid Hide Glue.
Titebond Liquid Hide Glue is very sensitive to humidity, therefore it is often hard to tell when to take off your clamps. The best way to determine your clamp time is to place a scrap piece of wood with Liquid Hide Glue spread on it next to your newly glued and clamped piece. When the glue on the scrap piece of wood is dry, you can take your clamps off. Be sure to wait at least 24 hours before you stress the joints.
Special consideration must be given to projects involving different wood species.
When different wood species are used in a project, it is important that all woods have the same moisture content. Storing all the wood together in the same warm, dry location before beginning the project will help all the wood reach the same moisture content.
Get good results gluing end grain joints.
Although good joint design minimizes the need for gluing end grain, sometimes end grain joints are unavoidable. The strength of end grain joints can be improved if the "open" end grain is first sized. A sizing mixture may be made by mixing one part to two parts water to one part glue. Place the sizing mixture on the end grain. Let it soak in for no more than two minutes, and then continue with a regular application of glue.
How to properly add dye to Titebond Wood Glues.
It is possible to change the color of aliphatic resin glues by using aniline-based dyes. Using a drop or two of water, work the powdered dye into a paste before adding to the glue. This helps to prevent lumps in the glue. Start by adding a small amount of the dye because a small amount can significantly alter the color. Before making your final color decision, be sure to let a sample of the dyed glue dry. When the mixtures dry they may look different from the wet state.
Ensuring that homemade wood fillers adhere to the surface.
Use a small artist's brush to coat the surface with glue before applying homemade wood filler. Doing this will assure that the surface is wet enough to encourage adhesion. Otherwise the wood filler mix may be too dry to adhere well to the surface to which it is being applied.
Prevent sunken joints in your projects.
Water based wood glues such as Titebond Original or Titebond II build strength in a joint as they lose moisture into the surrounding wood. This moisture causes the wood on both sides of the bondline to swell slightly. If the project is planed or sanded before this swelling disappears, the high moisture wood near the joint will continue to dry and will shrink slightly compared to the rest of the wood. Allow your project to dry for several days before sanding or planing.
 
Be aware of temperature guidelines for each of the Titebond Construction Adhesives.
While some of our adhesives can be applied at temperatures as low as 0°F and still achieve good bonds, other adhesives or applications are limited to higher temperatures. Finally, while some water-based products may perform well when applied at very cold temperatures, the adhesives in their containers must be kept above freezing to retain the consistency required for application. If cold temperatures are involved, read the label.
Determine the porosity of substrates before you begin your project.
Both solvent based and water based adhesives need to dry to develop strength and perform properly. They must dry by losing solvent or water through one of the surfaces being bonded. Non-porous materials such as painted surfaces, glazed tile, metal, plastic or foam all serve to prevent these products from drying, so neither water nor solvent based adhesives can be used to bond two non-porous substrates. To bond two non-porous materials, please read the next tip.
Bonding two non-porous materials is a special situation.
Polyurethane based adhesives cure rather than dry, and thus, can be used for bonding one non-porous material to another. When using a polyurethane based product like Titebond Premium Polyurethane Construction Adhesive for bonding two non-porous materials, it is beneficial to apply the adhesive and allow it to remain open to the air for perhaps fifteen minutes before positioning the second surface and closing the bond.
Read all label information very carefully.
For any successful project, using the appropriate product is critical. Be sure to review the label for product applications, instructions, helpful hints and cautions. If you have any questions regarding product labeling, please call 1-800-347-4583.
 
Always read the instructions on the adhesive and the flooring before beginning any installation.
If there is conflicting information, or if you have other questions, it is better to call our technical service line and ask, instead of beginning what may turn out to be an unsuccessful installation.
Always keep the trowel at a 45° angle from the floor.
While the specific angle is not critical, it should be apparent that any given trowel deposits less adhesive when it is tilted more toward the floor. In order to provide enough adhesive to bond the floor properly, it is essential that this guideline be followed.
Clean the trowel periodically.
The notches in the trowel are designed to deposit the correct amount of adhesive. Notches which become clogged with dried or cured adhesive, or notches which are reduced in size as the trowel wears from abrasion on the floor need to be cleaned or re-filed so they perform properly.
Always check the moisture content of the subfloor before starting to install a wood floor.
Our literature specifies that that the moisture content of a concrete subfloor registers no more than 3.0 lbs/1000 square feet/24 hours on a calcium chloride test or no more than 4.5 on a Tramex Concrete Moisture Encounter meter. If these methods are not available, taping a piece of plastic or foil over several square feet of slab, or laying a rubber mat over the slab for twenty-four hours will provide similar information. If these methods are used, moisture levels are too high for installation of a wood floor if the concrete is darkened or if moisture condenses on the bottom of the plastic or foil. The moisture content of a wood subfloor should not be more than 4% higher than that of the wood being installed.
Always remove any waxes or other types of buildup from the surface to which the adhesive will be applied.
Keep in mind that adhesives can only produce well-anchored floors when the surface to which they are applied is sound. Bonding to wax, dirt, paint or sealers will produce a bond no stronger than the wax, dirt, paint or sealer and will often create a problem that could be avoided by properly cleaning the subfloor.
Don't trowel out too much adhesive.
Although it is convenient to trowel out large areas of adhesive, keep in mind the working time of the adhesive and the layout of the floor. If you cannot lay flooring into all of the adhesive troweled within the open time, the flooring will not be adhered in some areas. One way to avoid this problem is to periodically lift up a piece of flooring that has just been installed to verify that the adhesive is transferring to the wood.
Clean up as you go.
As wood flooring is being installed, wipe any wet adhesive from the surface. Water based adhesives are removed with water, while urethane adhesives are removed with mineral spirits. Please refer to Knowledge Base article 100540 for more information.
Be aware that it may be necessary to prepare the subfloor before installing a wood floor.
All substrates must be clean, dry, structurally sound, properly cured and free of dirt, oil, paint, old adhesive, wax, sealers and curing agents. General scouring with 20 grit or #3½ paper will remove most compounds.
Typical requirements for a concrete subfloor:
The slab must be level to within 3/16" over any given 10 foot span. This insures that the adhesive will be able to bond to the flooring, assists in achieving a flat floor, and results in a successful installation. If the slab needs to be leveled, the ideal method is to mechanically grind down the high spots. Portland cement based levelers can also be used to fill the low spots and Franklin Concrete Primer will need to be used.
Typical requirements for a wood subfloor:
Insure that there is no bounce in the subfloor. This softness may remain in the finished floor, and affect the ultimate quality of the bond.
Typical requirements for a vinyl subfloor:
Insure that the vinyl subfloor is well anchored. We recommend the use of an ammonia based cleaning product to insure the removal of any wax that may have been applied to the tile.
Keep the need for expansion space in mind.
The expansion space recommended by the flooring manufacturer is designed to allow the floor to grow, as it will do whenever it increases in moisture. Typically, the baseboard, quarter round molding, or door casing covers this space and it is not visible. If the floor is not given the room to expand, it will ultimately fail when it increases enough in moisture to grow beyond the space in which it has been confined.
 
The trowel that is used to apply an adhesive can have a very large influence on the success or failure of the job.
The recommended trowel has been selected to provide sufficient installation time along with an appropriate amount of adhesive and to bridge irregularities in the bonding surfaces. Please click here for approximate square foot coverage according to the recommended trowel size.
Brace or block large panels for the first 24 hours after installation.
When installing large panels such as tub surrounds or sheets of FRP, bracing or blocking the panels for the first 24 hours provides assurance that a good bond will be achieved even if the panel is somewhat warped or the wall surface slightly irregular.
Contact cements must be applied to each surface and be able to dry before the surfaces are put together.
Contact cements are unique in that they are applied to both surfaces and must dry before the two surfaces are put together. The bond is then immediately formed when the two layers of dried adhesive are pressed together. Contact cements can only be successful when at least one of the materials being bonded is somewhat flexible.
Be aware that a multi-purpose flooring adhesive designed to install vinyl needs to dry after the materials are positioned.
Aside from certain thin spread, pressure sensitives, most other adhesives need to dry after the materials being joined are positioned. This requires that one of the materials being bonded be porous. This means that a multi-purpose flooring adhesive designed to install vinyl cannot be used to install vinyl over vinyl because neither of the surfaces is porous and the adhesive will not dry.
 
For intricate assemblies, project preparation is essential.
Because of the quick setting nature of the HiPURformer™ adhesives, it is recommended that all pieces for the project be cut and fit together before the actual assembly occurs.
Clamping your assembly may be desirable.
While clamping would not be necessary for many projects, it may be desirable. Clamping will produce a thinner, more aesthetically pleasing glue line. In addition, if the substrates being bonded have a lot of memory, pressing or clamping the pieces will help to keep them flat while the adhesive is curing, ensuring a better bond.
Have enough HiPURformer™ adhesive for the project.
Each 50-gram cartridge contains approximately 71 linear feet of HiPURformer Polyurethane Hot Melt Adhesive when the adhesive is applied in a 1/16" bead.
For rapid wood-to-wood assemblies, HiPURformer WW30 is ideal.
Titebond WW30 adhesive offers a thinner viscosity and a faster set time, making it ideal for rapid assembly operations.
For assemblies that may require an adhesive with gap-filling properties, the HiPURformer adhesives are perfect.
The cross-linking nature of the HiPURformer adhesives allow for high strength, permanent bonds with minimal pressure, and are ideal for applications where some gap-filling properties are needed.
HiPURformer MP75 is the ideal adhesive choice when assembling a wide variety of materials.
Titebond MP75 is extremely versatile and designed for use on materials such as Melamine, FRP, ceramics, metals, textiles, moldings and most other common substrates.
For intricate assemblies or face framing jobs, choose MP300 for the extended set time.
Titebond MP300 has a five-minute set time, the longest of all four of the HiPURformer adhesives. In addition, it is multi-purpose and designed for use on a wide variety of materials.
Detach the heat cylinder from the trigger handle properly to insert the adhesive cartridge.
Simply pull the trigger and simultaneously twist the heat cylinder counterclockwise to release it. Insert the adhesive cartridge (with cap on) into the heat cylinder and reattach the two adhesive applicator components.
The cartridge cap may be stored in the handle of the adhesive applicator when the HiPURformer adhesive is being used.
For convenience, there is a cartridge cap holder in the bottom of the adhesive applicator's handle. Store the cap in the handle holder while using the adhesive, eliminating chances for cap loss.
A hard to remove cap can be loosened by using the round, cap shaped receptacle in the base station.
Always wear gloves. The cartridge must be hot before attempting to remove the cap. If the cap becomes stuck, it may be loosened by using the similarly shaped receptacle in the base charger.
Minimize moisture to maximize shelf life.
Keep HiPURformer adhesive cartridges in their protective foil pouches until you are ready to use them. Unopened cartridges have a shelf life of approximately 1 year. Take the following precautions to provide a partially used cartridge with a minimum shelf life of 4 weeks. When you are finished working, purge some adhesive from the tip of the cartridge. Taking this step will allow any moisture-laden air to escape from the tip of the cartridge, preventing the adhesive from curing. After purging the tip, immediately replace the cartridge cap tightly while the adhesive is still hot in the applicator. Pull the feed rod away from the cartridge to prevent it from adhering to the cartridge plunger.
When taking the hot cartridge out of the adhesive applicator, be sure to use gloves.
We recommend that gloves be worn while using the HiPURformer Polyurethane Advanced Bonding System. Please wear them as you are removing a hot adhesive cartridge from the heating cylinder.
Re-use may require an extended heat up time.
When re-using a cartridge, you may find that the adhesive remaining in the tip may take a little longer to soften. Allow the adhesive applicator to heat for an extra 5 -7 minutes after the green light is displayed. This will help soften the dried adhesive in the tip and allow it to extrude easily when re-using a cartridge.
The base charger may be mounted on a firm surface.
For stability, the base charger may be mounted on a firm surface. Use 2.9mm (1/9") diameter screws to secure, using the holes provided on the bottom of the unit.
 
When installing flooring on top of lightweight concrete, always be sure to use a primer before beginning the installation.
Using a primer, such as Franklin Concrete Primer, before installing a wood floor over Gyp-Crete or other lightweight concrete materials will toughen the chalky surface and improve the anchorage of the floor.
Repairing loose or popping areas in a finished floor is easy with the Franklin Urethane Repair Kit.
The Franklin Urethane Repair Kit is a two-part urethane system that enables contractors to repair loose or popping areas in a finished floor. The adhesive in the system has a low viscosity that sets quickly and is fully cured within thirty to forty-five minutes of application. The easy flow characteristics of the urethane adhesive, unlike traditional epoxies, provide increased coverage of the repair.
The Franklin Urethane Repair Kit is easy to use with minimal holes to drill - an 1/8" drill bit is all that is required. Therefore, upon completion of the process, when used as directed, the floor will be repaired with no visible defects.
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